WHEN I’M IN VERACRUZ, I’M HEADING STRAIGHT DOWNTOWN

By Sarah DeVries

Spending more time in Veracruz due to my partner's job has exposed me to the vibrant and contrasting atmosphere of downtown Veracruz compared to my hometown of Xalapa, the state’s capital, situated in the cooler, mountainous region known for its artistic culture.

Downtown Veracruz is a bustling port city, alive with humidity and rich history. Unlike the cooler Xalapa, Veracruz's tropical heat hits you hard upon arrival, instantly bringing on a sweat, while the locals appear unfazed.

LOS JAROCHOS

The residents, called “jarochos,” embody the lively spirit of the city. They are warm, friendly, and unabashedly expressive, welcoming strangers with enthusiastic greetings. Their humor shines through, as evidenced by a watch salesman on the boardwalk who cheerfully boasted about his “good” stolen wares.

While Xalapeños may be akin to cool cats, jarochos radiate the joy of playful puppies, eager to engage with everyone.

THE TREES OF VERACRUZ: “THIS IS OURS NOW”

A stroll through downtown reveals its gritty charm, with many historic buildings showing signs of decay. The struggle to maintain these properties amidst bureaucratic red tape often leads to neglect or abandonment. As these structures slowly wither, nature cheerfully reclaims them, with trees growing through windows and roofs, giving the area an almost hauntingly beautiful quality reminiscent of urban Cuba.

Further down the coast, Boca del Río offers a cleaner and more modern environment, diverging from the historical allure of downtown Veracruz, which captivates with its early Mexican remnants and boisterous locals.

Sarah DeVries is a writer and translator based in Xalapa. Visit her website to connect with her.